I visited Jerusalem twice. There was tremendous guilt, but not about me being Christian; it was all about me being German. There was also a strong sense of history, the enormity of history through the millennia; the second time, we were staying in a hotel on Mount Olive, i.e. in Eastern Jerusalem, on the Palestinian side (mostly because of the spectacular view on the old city), and so you heard the calling from mosques throughout the day, you heard some bells depending on where you were in the old city, and of course you saw the wall of the old temple with the praying faithful. It felt a bit like going into the Dead Sea a few days later did, when instead of floating you attempt to swim; you can't do it because everything that surounds you is so heavy, you can't feel it all. You can just stay on the surface and get a mere brief glimpse of it.